Category Archives: Rome

Julius Caesar and the Ides of March

In the midst of the most turbulent American political season in decades, I recently re-read Shakespeare’s play Julius Caesar. His source was mostly the historian Plutarch. The play is still relevant, and still illuminating on the subjects of loyalty to others versus loyalty to country, honest differences of political opinion, the uses and abuses of power, and whether and when violence is justified. And because it’s Shakespeare, every word is memorable. In history and in the play, Julius Caesar meets a bloody end.  But  Shakespeare gave him some memorable lines before he went down.  In the play, contemplating his risks, Julius Caesar says, “Cowards die may times before their deaths; the valiant never taste of death but once.”

This day, the 15th of March in year 44 B.C., did not work out well for Julius Caesar.  According to the historian Plutarch, a fortune-teller warned Caesar that something terrible would happen to him before the “Ides of March.”  There were other warnings, too:  a graphically violent dream by Caesar’s worried wife Calphurnia, men seemingly walking around on fire in the marketplace, a lion wandering the streets. Confident (or foolhardy) fellow that Julius Caesar was, he laughed at the portents and predictions. He even gloated, as he made his way to the Roman Senate on that morning.  When he reached the Theater of Pompey, where Senate sessions were being temporarily held, he figured he was home free.  But a lethal circle of assassins awaited him, knives concealed under their togas. Calphurnia’s nightmare came horribly true.

"Death of Caesar," 1798, VIncenzo Camuccini, public domain

“Death of Caesar,” 1798, Vincenzo Camuccini, public domain

Julius Caesar’s death marked the end of the Roman Republic and the beginning of fierce civil wars that eventually led to the formation of the Roman Empire–a period that was stable, but definitely not democratic. Julius Caesar had already more or less ended the Republic:  at the height of his power, he had named himself “Imperator.”

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Could Caesar have avoided his violent end? Given his personality and supreme self-confidence, he probably could not. He had refused to resign when the Senate politely requested that he step down, and with one of his legions he had defiantly crossed the Rubicon River into Italy.  That was strictly forbidden. Military conquest was for the frontiers. Rome was for reasoned debate among civilized men.  Ever since Julius Caesar’s audacious and risky march across that border river, the expression “crossing the Rubicon” has meant a fateful and irreversible action. There was no turning back, for Caesar or for Rome.

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Looking back over the centuries, it appears that the common people loved Julius Caesar for his flamboyance and for the military glory he had brought home to Rome. But his aristocratic peers saw only danger ahead. They decided that Caesar had to go. Once he was safely dead and out of the way, his heir, Octavius, obligingly made Julius Caesar a god. No danger there, and the move placated the restive common people.

HauntingForum

Today, the Roman Forum is a haunting place to wander, pondering the ups and downs of history. When I visited, I bought a book with clear overlays which shows how the various buildings must once have looked back in the day.  But even without a visual aid, it is not hard to imagine Julius Caesar and his entourage making his way through the Forum on his way to the Senate session on that fateful day, the Ides of March in 44 B.C.

Join me next time for more explorations into the art and history of Europe!

The Ides of March

In the midst of the most turbulent American political season in decades, I recently re-read Shakespeare’s play Julius Caesar. His source was mostly the historian Plutarch. The play is still relevant, and still illuminating on the subjects of loyalty to others versus loyalty to country, honest differences of political opinion, and whether and when violence is justified.

This day, the 15th of March in the year 44 B.C., did not work out so well for Julius Caesar.  According to the historian Plutarch, a fortune-teller warned him that something terrible would happen to him before the “Ides of March.”  Confident fellow that Julius Caesar was, he laughed at the prediction and even gloated, as he made his way to the Roman Senate on that morning.  He figured he was home free.  But assassins awaited him at the Theater of Pompey, where Senate sessions were being held temporarily.

"Death of Caesar," 1798, VIncenzo Camuccini, public domain

“Death of Caesar,” 1798, VIncenzo Camuccini, public domain

Julius Caesar’s death marked the end of the Roman Republic and the beginning of fierce civil wars that eventually led to the formation of the Roman Empire–a period that was stable, but definitely not democratic. Julius Caesar had already more or less ended the Republic:  he had named himself “Imperator.”

Events excalated. Caesar refused to resign when the Senate politely requested that he step down, and with one of his legions he defiantly crossed the Rubicon River into Italy.  That was strictly forbidden. Military conquest was for the frontiers. Rome was for reasoned debate among civilized men.  Ever since Julius Caesar’s audacious and risky march across that border river, the expression “crossing the Rubicon” has meant a fateful and irreversible action. There was no turning back, for Caesar or for Rome.

Looking back over the centuries, it appears that the common people loved Julius Caesar for his flamboyance and for the military glory he had brought home to Rome. But his aristocratic peers saw only danger ahead. They decided that Caesar had to go. Once he was safely dead and out of the way, his heir, Octavius, obligingly made Julius Caesar a god.

HauntingForum

Today, the Roman Forum is a haunting place to wander, pondering the ups and downs of history. I bought a book with clear overlays which shows how the various buildings must once have looked.  But even without a visual aid, it is not hard to imagine Julius Caesar and his entourage making his way through the Forum on his way to the Senate session on that fateful day in 44 B.C.

Join me next time for more explorations into the art and history of Europe!

Columbus Day

No American holiday is as controversial as Columbus Day.  Over 500 years after Christopher Columbus’s voyage to what was then the “New World,” celebrations often turn into protests.  Since Christopher Columbus was from Genoa in what is now Italy, Italian-Americans use the holiday to celebrate their heritage. Native Americans and others decry the exploitation of their peoples by the European colonizers.  We can all give some thought to history today. I am repeating some material from a previous post of mine for Columbus Day.

Remember the ditty, “In fourteen hundred and ninety-two, Columbus sailed the ocean blue?” Just two years after Christopher Columbus’s  voyage, in the year 1494, the Renaissance artist Pinturicchio apparently added images of the Native Americans described by Columbus to a fresco in the Vatican. Columbus called the people he met “Indians” because he mistakenly believed he had reached the East Indies, source of coveted treasure like silk and spices.

Detail of fresco showing Native Americans
Detail of fresco showing Native Americans

News reports on the frescoes vary.  Either the images were more or less overlooked for the past 500 years, or they were uncovered in a recent cleaning of the fresco. The images are difficult to see.  They appear at the top of the open tomb.

Pinturicchio "Resurrection of Christ"
Pinturicchio “Resurrection of Christ”

The fresco, titled “Resurrection of Christ,” was commissioned for the rooms to be occupied by the newly-elected Pope Alexander VI.  This Pope was the former Spanish cardinal Rodrigo Borgia, so his rooms came to be called the “Borgia Apartments.” All the great powers in Europe at the time were much interested in the so-called “New World.” Of course, we now know that a big part of the interest in “the New World” was in exploiting the people and the riches to be found there.  But seeing this fresco gives us a little insight into the excitement in Europe over the new discoveries.  And over time, after many mistakes and abuses, a “New World” of freedom and democracy really was created.

I first read about this discovery in The New York Times, http://artsbeat.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/05/06/early-images-of-american-indians-found-in-a-vatican-fresco/. I have to thank Kathy Schiffer, in her blog “Seasons of Grace,” for coming up with the full image of the fresco.  Her article is at http://www.patheos.com/blogs/kathyschiffer/2013/04/first-ever-painting-of-native-americans-discovered-in-the-vatican/.

Today, in the midst of a government shutdown frustrating to everyone, the Statue of Liberty has reopened.  The reopening is timely.  In spite of grievous mistakes made by our country, past and present, and by European colonizers in the past, the United States still stands as a land of freedom and opportunity. The Statue of Liberty is still a cherished symbol of what America offers. An article about the reopening is at http://www.nytimes.com/2013/10/14/nyregion/statue-of-liberty-reopens-as-other-sites-stay-empty.html?_r=0.

 

Native Americans at the Vatican

Remember the ditty, “In fourteen hundred and ninety-two, Columbus sailed the ocean blue?” Two years after Christopher Columbus’s  voyage, in the year 1494, the Renaissance artist Pinturicchio apparently added images of the Native Americans described by Columbus to a fresco in the Vatican.

Detail of fresco showing Native Americans

Detail of fresco showing Native Americans

News reports vary.  Either the images were more or less overlooked for the past 500 years, or they were uncovered in a recent cleaning of the fresco. The images are difficult to see.  They appear at the top of the open tomb.

Pinturicchio "Resurrection of Christ"

Pinturicchio “Resurrection of Christ”

The fresco, titled “Resurrection of Christ,” was commissioned for the rooms to be occupied by the newly-elected Pope Alexander VI.  This Pope was the former Spanish cardinal Rodrigo Borgia, so his rooms came to be called the “Borgia Apartments.” All the great powers in Europe at the time were much interested in the so-called “New World.” Of course, we now know that a big part of the interest in “the New World” was in exploiting the people and the riches to be found there.  But seeing this fresco gives us a little insight into the excitement in Europe over the new discoveries.

I first read about this discovery in The New York Times, http://artsbeat.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/05/06/early-images-of-american-indians-found-in-a-vatican-fresco/. I have to thank Kathy Schiffer, in her blog “Seasons of Grace,” for coming up with the full image of the fresco.  Her article is at http://www.patheos.com/blogs/kathyschiffer/2013/04/first-ever-painting-of-native-americans-discovered-in-the-vatican/.

The year before last, I was lucky enough to be in Rome just when the Vatican Museums were first open on Friday evenings from 7 to 11 pm.  All the daytime tourists leave, another long line forms, and at 7pm the doors open again.  The museums do fill up, of course, but things are much less crowded than during the day.  This program has been expanded; it now runs from May 3 to July 26, and again from September 6 to October 25.  I hope to be there again on a Friday night before too long!

Join me next time for more explorations in the art and history of Europe!

Rome Culture Week 2013 Cancelled (but go anyway!)

Roman Forum

Roman Forum

 

The first time we went to Rome, we were amazed when we stopped at the ticket office of the first museum on our list.  Our tickets were free!  We had arrived during the Settimana della Cultura, a week in which all city and state owned museums were free.  We took full advantage, taking in museums we might otherwise have skipped:  the Napoleon family museum, the Corsini Gallery, and the Villa Farnesina, where Raphael entertained his mistress while he created the latest in home decor for his wealthy boss.  Best of all, we had the luxury of short, repeated visits to the big, exhausting museums like the Capitoline and the various locations of the National Museum of Rome.  Ever since, we have tried to plan a trip around the Settimana.  But dates are a closely guarded secret, announced with hardly any lead time.

The reason for the secrecy is that the free week was always meant to benefit locals more than tourists.  But this spring, for the first time in 14 years, there is no Settimana at all.  Authorities decided that with the current economic crisis, they cannot give up a week of admission fees.  To add insult to injury, non-residents have to pay 1 Euro on top of the regular admission price, all the time.  This rule was adopted in 2011, the same year the “tourist tax” of 2 to 5 Euros per person per night was imposed on all Roman lodging.  The amount depends on the number of stars the hotel claims.  Even campsites are taxed, though.

These extra fees seem minor compared to the total cost of a trip to Italy, but they are annoying to the traveler, the ticket seller, and the hotel keeper.  The lodging fee has to be paid in cash, separate from the hotel bill.  Considering what tourists contribute to Italy’s economy each year, this nickel-and-diming of visitors seems short-sighted.

Italy is expensive to begin with, and travel there can be frustrating.  Italian cities and towns are stuffed with priceless art treasures, yet the museums are some of the worst-kept in Europe.  Many buildings are crumbling, dusty and dark.  Hours change without warning.  Admission fees are high. It sometimes seems as though the cultural authorities exploit their treasures but fail to safeguard them.

In spite of all this, I love Italy.  The cities and towns themselves, large and small, are free open-air museums of art, architecture and history.  The churches contain some of the greatest treasures and are generally free, or they ask for a small donation.  Italian people are friendly, kind and proud of their heritage.  A bewildered tourist clutching a map on a street corner will soon have a local resident offering to help.  Since Italians generally live in small homes, they spend a lot of time in parks, cafes and strolling their cities.  Street life is colorful and endlessly fascinating.  The food is wonderful.  A little research makes a trip affordable (For me, the research is almost as much fun as the trip itself). And the memories are lifelong.  Bella Italia will always beckon!

Campo de' Fiori

Campo de’ Fiori